Showing posts with label nuts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nuts. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 07, 2009

The Battle of the Pies


This is a picture of the Vanilla Pudding Mousse Pie. I'm sorry, but I didn't take one of the Milk Mousse Pie - it was gone too fast. It looked the same, though, except that the mousse was a pure, snowy white.


You don't know this about me, but I almost always manage to screw up easy things. I have no explanation for this. I did it with this cake, for example, which I salvaged by turning it into cake pops. I've also managed to ruin another supposedly easy Dorie Greenspan cake since, but I didn't blog about it (I was embarrassed). Funny enough, I've never failed when trying something complicated for the first time. This said, you might understand why I usually go for the more advanced recipes when baking. And sometimes, that tendency of mine makes my life more complicated than it needs to be.
Why am I telling you this? Well, I was asked to make this the other day. I brought back a box from New York last summer and my friends loved it.
Problem: They don't sell the stuff in this country. You can order it online, but it's way too expensive. Once again, it was do it yourself or forget about eating it again.
Second problem: I didn't have a recipe. And while there are tons of mousse recipes out there, I didn't find one for a milk mousse that didn't contain either chocolate or cream cheese, which I figured would be the kind of mousse I'd need. I initially figured I could just dissolve gelatin in milk, then add whipped cream. But then I began to doubt myself, thinking it just couldn't be that easy. There had to be some secret ingredient or at least some complicated step involved.
So instead, I picked this vanilla mousse recipe for my pie filling (scroll down). Since it involves tempering yolks and whisking vigorously, it seemed complicated enough to be bound to be a success. See where it says "pastry cream"? That's actually pudding. I didn't catch on to the fact that I was making pudding until it had happened.
So I ended up with pudding mousse pie. I didn't screw it up and it was very good, just not what I had been looking for.
I was a little disappointed as I went back to my room. I was also determined to master the no-bake pie. Fortunately, I had used my mini springform pan the first time around, because I hadn't been sure if I'd have enough mousse for a 9-inch pan. I had only used up half of the crumbs, so there was still enough left to give it another try
This time, I went with my very first instinct. Turns out it really was that easy. And how convenient to find out that the New York Times had published a recipe since I first started looking. I love the New York Times.


Pie Crust (makes enough for one 9-inch or two 6-inch springform pans):

- Line the springform pan(s) with parchment paper.

- Melt butter in a medium saucepan over low heat (butter should not separate).

- Add cookie crumbs.

- Mix until the crumbs are evenly moistened.

- Spoon mixture into prepared pan(s), press into pan with bottom of drinking glass or back of tablespoon.

- Refrigerate until needed.

- Then fill pie crust with mousse and refrigerate again until firm.

- To remove pie from the pan, run a knife under hot water, then wipe dry. Run it around the edges of the pie to loosen it, then remove springform ring. You can now carefully transfer the whole pie to a cake stand.


Vanilla Pudding Mousse Pie Filling (it's originally part of a French Yule Log recipe from Florilege Gourmand; I found it at Good Eats'n Sweets):

  • 1 vanilla bean
  • 135 ml (1/2 cup plus 1 Tablespoon) 2 % milk
  • 215 ml (1 cup minus 2 Tablespoons) heavy cream*
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 80 g (6 Tablespoons) granulated sugar
  • 4 g (2 sheets/4 teaspoons) fish gelatin
  • 25 g (3 Tablespoons) cornstarch, sifted
  • Another 240 ml (1 cup) whipping cream*

- Pour milk and 215 ml cream into a saucepan.

- Split vanilla bean in half, scrape out the seeds and add both the seeds and the vanilla bean to the pot as well.

- Bring the mixture to a boil, then take it off the heat, cover with a lid and let it infuse for at least 30 minutes. When the time is up, remove the vanilla bean.

- In a medium bowl, whip egg yolks and sugar until white, thick and fluffy.

- Add the sifted cornstarch while whisking to make sure there are no lumps.

- Whisking vigorously, gradually add some of the warm milk mixture to the eggs to temper them.

- Put the vanilla milk back on the stove (medium heat) and slowly add the egg mixture, whisking vigorously to keep it from curdling.

- Keep whisking until the mixture starts to thicken considerably.

- When the mixture starts to boil, leave it on for only 2 more minutes. Afterwards, keep whisking and remove from heat.

- Now either put your pot into a cold water bath, stirring very frequently to prevent a skin from forming, until the mixture has come to room temperature.

- Or cover the pastry cream by putting plastic wrap directly on its surface. This will also prevent a skin from forming. Let cool at room temperature. I'm impatient, so I used the former method.

- For gelatin sheets: Let soak in cold water, then melt in a saucepan with 1 teaspoon of water. For powdered gelatin: Sprinkle over 1 teaspoon of water, let it bloom, then melt as described above. Don't let the gelatin boil!

- Pour melted gelatin over pastry cream, stir very well.

- Whisk 240 ml whipping cream until stiff peaks form, then gradually add it to the cream. Fold it in carefully with a silicone spatula.

- Pour mousse into prepared pie crust and refrigerate until firm (at least 3 hours, preferably overnight).

*I have never understood the difference between heavy cream and whipping cream (is there even a difference?). We only have one kind of sweet cream in Germany that I know of, so that's what I used.

This is a very good pie filling. It tastes like a rich, milky vanilla pudding/custard and it has a similar creamy mouthfeel, but it's much much lighter (tastewise. I'm afraid it contains about a million calories). It doesn't produce the gunk in your throat that I often get from eating very creamy desserts. It's sweet, but not throat-searingly so. Very good. I wonder why I was so upset at first. However, it's a good thing I was, because otherwise I wouldn't have made Mousse Filling 2.0. Here's the recipe:


Milk Mousse Pie Filling (adapted from the NYT, June 17th, 2009); double the recipe for a 9-inch springform pan:

  • 240 ml (1 cup) milk, divided
  • 1.5 teaspoons powdered fish gelatin (sooo much better than agar-agar!); I would use 2 teaspoons next time, the mousse was a little on the soft side
  • 1 pinch salt
  • 240 ml (1 cup) heavy cream
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
- Sprinkle gelatin over 120 ml (1/2 cup) milk.

- Scald the other 120 ml (1/2 cup) milk with salt and sugar.

- Whisk hot milk into cold milk until gelatin has dissolved.

- Chill until not quite set (about 1.5-2 hours).

- Whisk cream until stiff peaks form.

- Using a rubber/silicone spatula, fold cream into the milk jelly.

- Fill mousse into prepared pie crust and chill until set completely (preferably overnight).

This makes an extremely light, milky mousse. It isn't very sweet at all and there's no artificial taste to it, in fact, I think the taste can best be described as "pure". In combination with the pie crust, it basically tastes like deep chocolate cookies with a glass of cool milk - but more sophisticated.

Conclusion:
We ended up with so much pie that we decided we'd have a big pie testing to determine which one was better. So I invited some friends over to be my jurors. I don't think I've ever witnessed a group of my friends fighting over dessert. Both pies were a huge success. And the final verdict? Undecided. Most of the guys preferred the pudding mousse pie, while most of the girls said they liked the milk mousse pie just a tad better, at least during the hot summer months. They also mentioned they'd like a strawberry coulis with it next time. I think that's an awesome idea.
It was decided I'd had to make both pies again. And more!
Oh, and btw, we all agreed that neither pie tasted like the boxed version. Personally, I think that's a good thing.

Thursday, June 04, 2009

Quadruple Chocolate Almond Cookies

Can I just say one thing? Making these cookies was hard. I'm serious.




Wanna know why?
You can't bake them right away. That is, you can, and I certainly have (for research's sake!), but you would be cheating yourself. These are just so much better if you let the dough rest.
For at least 24 hours, to be precise. I know. But the NYT said so and who am I to argue. I didn't use their recipe, but I figured if resting makes their cookies better, it probably makes all cookies better.
And that did turn out to be the case. The first batch (baked right away) was good, if a little bland, which was surprising, considering these cookies contain melted chocolate and cocoa in the batter, plus two kinds of chocolate chips. The chocolatey taste did hit eventually, but it wasn't as deep as I expected it to be.
The second batch (baked after approximately 50 hours) was so entirely different that the boyfriend asked me whether I had tried a new recipe. This time, there was that deep, dark chocolate flavor that made the cookies very rich. The elements of the cookie played together way better. My friend said they were like a good perfume - a rich, fragrant base note of dark chocolate that sets off the top notes of nuts and white chocolate. I think she described them well. While the different elements existed side by side before the resting period, they really worked together afterwards.
One caveat, though. These are not chewy cookies. In fact, I found them a little too hard. I overbaked the first batch a little, but I paid better attention with the second batch and took them out when their centers were still very soft. They still turned out crunchy. I think these are just not the type of cookies that can turn out chewy.
As for the nuts, I had whole almonds on hand, so that's what I used. You could also use pecans, Brazil nuts, hazelnuts, cashews or walnuts. I wouldn't use macadamia, their subtle taste would totally get lost in the chocolate taste. And macadamias are expensive. I only use them in recipes that make them shine. But feel free to add them if they're more affordable in your part of the world.

And here's the recipe (I got it from a friend a few years ago, I don't know where she got it):

  • 130 g flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 150 g = 1 cup vanilla sugar*
  • 75 g = 1/2 cup granulated sugar**
  • 46 g = 1/2 cup Dutch-processed cocoa
  • 110 g butter
  • 110 g dark chocolate (I used 60%)
  • 100 g milk chocolate chips/chocolate chunks
  • 100 g whole almonds, chopped in 2 or 3 pieces each
  • 50 g white chocolate chips/chocolate chunks
  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

*Vanilla sugar is made by processing 5 cups of sugar and a vanilla bean (can be a used one) in a food processor
**If you don't have vanilla sugar, you can use a total of 1 1/2 cups regular granulated sugar for the recipe and add 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

  • In a medium bowl, sift together flour, cocoa powder, salt and baking soda
  • In a double broiler or a small bowl set over simmering water (make sure the water doesn't touch the bottom of the bowl), melt the butter and the dark chocolate together. Let the mixture cool until it feels slightly warm against your skin.
  • Use a finger to test. Then lick off the chocolate butter. It's dark chocolate. It's good for you.
  • In a large bowl, whisk together eggs and sugars until well combined. If you're using vanilla extract, add it now.
  • Gradually add the warm chocolate butter. Or add it all at once, if you're feeling lucky. I always do it in increments, because I'm afraid the mixture could be too warm and I don't want to end up with scrambled eggs. Ugh, scrambled eggs...
  • Now fold in the flour until just incorporated.
  • Add the chocolate chips and the nuts and fold them in.







  • And now, wrap up your dough with plastic wrap, put it in the fridge and forget about it for two days. Or eat some of the dough. It's good already. It will be better in two days, though, so show some restraint.
  • When you're ready to bake your cookies, preheat your oven to 180°C/350°F.
  • Roll the dough into little balls (4 cm/1,5 inches) and drop them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
  • Bake them for approximately 15 minutes, or until the tops crack (mine took 12 min.). The cookies will still be soft.
  • Let them cool on a wire rack.
  • These can be stored in a cookie jar for up to a week.
Because these are so crunchy, they're also quite stable. You can dunk them in milk and let them soak it up and they won't fall apart.


Tuesday, June 02, 2009

Cheese-filled Puff Pastries with Roasted Green Asparagus


Sometimes, I enjoy finding a recipe, shopping for it, and then spending hours following dozens of steps.
And sometimes, I like to look through my refrigerator and pantry and design a meal around what I have on hand.
This is one of the latter cases.
I had a bunch of leftover asparagus spears (minus the heads) from this recipe, I had frozen puff pastry that was almost past its prime, and I had a little basket of button mushrooms that were left over from the English breakfast I made for the boyfriend on our day off. Rummaging through my fridge, I also found a container of teeny tiny fresh mozzarella balls (yes, I buy food because it's cute) and a fresh package of pure sheep cheese. If you've never had sheep cheese, you have to try it. It tastes a little like goat cheese, but very mild, with a soft and silky texture. It's not as salty and tangy as goat cheese, but has a flavor similar to whole milk.
This is a good summer meal and can easily be prepared using just a single oven dish or baking tray, depending on how much you are making.
This recipe serves 3 average or 2 very hungry eaters.

Roasted Asparagus:

- a bunch green asparagus spears, cut into 2-inch long pieces (5 cm)
- 2 garlic cloves, sliced
- 2 Tablespoons pine nuts
- about 3 Tablespoons of olive oil
- 1 teaspoon of salt
- 1 teaspoon of black pepper
- juice of 1/2 lemon

  • Put asparagus pieces in an oven dish
  • Sprinkle with garlic, pine nuts, salt and pepper
  • Drizzle with olive oil
  • Bake them at 200°C/390°F for 15-20 minutes, or until their edges are starting to turn brown. If you're making the pastries as well, prepare them and place them in the same dish before baking.
  • Take out of the oven and drizzle with lemon juice.

Cheese-filled Puff Pastry:

- 3 sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed
- 100 g/3.5 ounces button mushrooms, sliced
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- about 2 Tablespoons thyme
- 50 g/1.75 ounces tiny fresh mozzarella balls (or equivalent in big mozzarella balls, finely diced)
- 50 g/1.75 ounces sheep cheese, crumbled
- salt and pepper to taste
- milk, butter or 1 egg, for brushing

  • Sautée onions and garlic in a saucepan over medium heat for 2 minutes.
  • Add mushrooms and thyme.
  • Sautée until the mushrooms are soft
  • Transfer to medium bowl
  • Add cheeses, mix well
  • Add pepper and salt to taste (go easy on the salt, the cheeses are already salty)
  • Divide mixture evenly between the pastry sheets
  • Fold over the edges and pinch them closed. Use a fork to seal the edges.
  • Place the pastry pockets in the same pan as the asparagus, brush with milk, butter or egg
  • Bake for 20 minutes at 200°C/390°F.